The 2009 Trebulanum is one of the more exotic wines I tasted this year from Campania. Trebulanum is made from Casavecchia, one of the region's rediscovered ancient grapes. It boasts considerable aromatic complexity, generous, almost exuberant fruit and big, powerful tannins. The wine comes together beautifully in the glass as some of the rough edges soften. Smoke, goudron and tar add complexity on the muscular finish. This isn't for the faint of heart, but will thrill readers seeking to understand the essence of Casavecchia. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.