There are outstanding white wines from many parts of Italy. While most people think of the wines of Alto Adige and Friuli in the northeastern reaches of the country, there are also some beautiful whites from Piedmont in the northwest as well as Marche, along the Adriatic Coast in eastern central Italy. I love all these wines, but my vote for the region that is home to Italy’s finest white wines is Campania in the the country’s southwestern sector.
Viticulture in Campania dates as far back as several thousand years ago, when Greek colonists started to plant vines in this region, which they named campania felix, meaning “fertile countryside.” In fact, one of the principal white varieties in the region is Greco, literally named for the Greeks.
There are several other excellent white wines from Campania, which I'll cover briefly. Arguably the most underrated is Palagrello Bianco, grown in Caserta; it is certainly unknown to most consumers or even those familiar with Campanian wines. One of the finest producers working with this variety is Massimo Alois, whose "Caiatì" offering is stellar. Alois notes that the variety is not as acidic as Falanghina or other local grapes, meaning that producers grow the grape at elevations of 100 feet or higher in order to gain acidity. "What is impressive," says Alois, "is the aroma. Always toward grapefruit, citrus and anise." His 2016 "Caiatì" is memorable, with notable texture and beautiful varietal focus.