Campania Now Confidently At The Heart Of Italy’s Viticultural Excitement
By Paul Caputo
To call Campania the most exciting wine region in Italy is a big statement. Depending on your metrics however, it may well be true. Appreciated in equal measure for both its red and white wines, a new generation of ownership is not only leveraging the latest wine making science, it is doing so to advance the reputations of traditional grape varieties - in turn strengthening the region’s contribution to the world of wine.
Campania has four DOCG appellations, a number of ambitious DOC and IGT territories and at least a dozen grapes capable of producing quality mono-varietal wines. In just two decades, Fiano and Greco have become part of the Italian wine establishment, while Falanghina is staking a strong claim to join them. Aglianico’s reputation, which I’ve written about at length here, is unquestionable when it comes to producing fine red wines, especially in Taurasi. The red-skinned Piedirosso may never offer as much complexity, but it is certainly capable of producing good terroir influenced wines. There are more though. Coastal varieties such as Biancolella is showing lots of promise, while the likes of Pallagrello (red and white) and Casavecchia grown in the north of the region are attracting justifiable recognition.
Of the region’s 24,000 hectares of vineyard, 85% are planted on hillsides on mountainous slopes. Only around the 15% are planted on the plains, often considered inferior terrain for growing good wine grapes. That is to say, viticulture here is not set up for bulk production; rather, a majority of boutique family-owned wineries must develop their commercial strategies with a quality over quantity approach. The results are impressive.
Behind the industry’s development sits a change in ethos, both in the vineyard and in attitudes toward the market. The USA remains a critical outlet for exporters across southern Italy, even during this tariff induced trading challenge, but the gradual realisation that chasing trends and matching the perceived tastes of generic consumers is ultimately counter productive. Fuelling the current renaissance then is a collective investment in authenticity.
...
Another intriguing aspect of Campania’s viticultural depth at the moment is the area known loosely as Alta Campania. At least two grape varieties are revelling in the benefits of rejuvenation in the countryside north of Caserta. The rolling hills near the village of Pontelatone are quickly re-establishing their affinity with the red Casavecchia grape, and the white Pallagrello Bianco. The leading ambassador is Alois, who produces the most refined and complex expressions of both.
‘Morrone’, the estate’s flagship Pallagrello Bianco is positively Burgundian in style. A gentle agitation of the lees gives a creamy texture that enriches the variety’s predisposition to yellow orchard fruit and sharp acidity. The ‘Trebulanum’ Casavecchia Riserva, which carries a DOC (Casavecchia di Pontelatone) is just as exciting, and a fantastic example of what the grape can do when planted in the right place and handled with care. I’m a huge fan of its velvety, plush purple fruit and sturdy tannic grip.
Read the full article on Forbes >
